概述深衣在不同时期的形制特点 深衣的形制有哪些
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1、春秋时期
深衣是方形领、圆形袖、下摆不开衩,将右面衣襟接长,接长后的衣襟形成三角,穿时绕至背后,再以丝带系扎。上下合体下部宽广,长至踝间。领、袖和下摆的边缘都是有素色或绣绘滚边。
2、秦汉时期
深衣在形制上多为单层,下裳裁成十二片以应十二月;在外观上通身紧窄,长可曳地,缠绕层数更多,下摆一般呈喇叭状,行不露足。腰身通常紧裹,衣袖有宽窄两式,袖口大多镶边。衣领通常用交领,领口很低,以便露出里衣。如穿几件衣服,每层领子必露于外,最多的达三层以上,时称“三重衣”。
3、魏晋南北
深衣的总体特点是“上俭下丰”式,衣身简单,右衽,领袖具施边缘,袖子宽敞肥大。下摆部位特点突出,通常将下摆制成的三角,上宽下尖,层层相叠,飘带拖得较长。
深衣的结构内涵
此衣名的由来是因为穿着时能拥蔽全身,将人体掩蔽严实的缘故。具体形制的每一部分都有极深的含意,而“深意”的谐音即为“深衣”。
如在制作中,先将上衣下裳分裁,然后在腰部缝合,成为整长衣,以示尊祖承古。深衣象征天人合一,恢宏大度,公平正直,包容万物的东方美德。袖根宽大,袖口收祛,象征天道圆融;领口直角相交,象征地道方正。
背后一条直缝贯通上下,象征人道正直;下摆平齐,象征权衡;分上衣、下裳两部分,象征两仪;上衣用布四幅,象征一年四季;下裳用布十二幅,象征一年十二月。
身穿深衣,自然能体现天道之圆融,怀抱地道之方正,身合人间之正道,行动进退合权衡规矩,生活起居顺应四时之序。
至少从司马光所制的“温公深衣”开始,深衣面料就多为白纻细布,而腰带从出土文物和容像上可以看出,为大带。
深衣
古代诸侯、大夫、士晚间所穿之衣。流行于先秦。当时深衣,以白色麻布为之。其用途极广,是朝祭之外的士吉服,庶人的唯一的吉服。其特点为上衣和下裳相连,衣襟右掩,下摆不开衩,将衣襟接长,向后拥掩,垂及踝部。因其前后深长,故称深衣。深衣边缘通常镶以彩帛,其形制、规格皆有严格规定,历代解释者甚多,说法有不一致处。及汉代,妇人礼服用衣,裳相连续,与古代深衣同。其样式,对后代的服饰产生极大影响,唐代的袍下加襕,元代的质孙服、腰线袄子,明代的曳散等都采用其上下连衣裳的形式。今之连衣裙,也是古代深衣制的发展。《礼记.深衣》:“[深衣]故可以为文,可以为武,可以摈相,可以治军旅。完且弗费,善衣之次也。”郑玄注:“名曰深衣者,谓连衣裳而纯之采者。”又《礼记.王藻》:“朝元端,夕深衣。”
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