求制动系统的英文翻译 ABS制动系统翻译成英文
\u5236\u52a8\u7cfb\u7edf\u82f1\u6587\u7ffb\u8bd1Brake System
ABS=\u9632\u62b1\u6b7b\u5236\u52a8\u7cfb\u7edf(Antilock Brake System)
制动系统 Braking Systems由于字数太多所以就不全部粘贴了。
http://mypage.direct.ca/k/kdomries/brakes.html
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/brake.htm
http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake
A brake is a device for slowing or stopping the motion of a machine or vehicle, or alternatively a device to restrain it from starting to move again. The kinetic energy lost by the moving part is usually translated to heat by friction. Alternatively, in regenerative braking, much of the energy is recovered and stored in a flywheel, capacitor or turned into alternating current by an alternator, then rectified and stored in a battery for later use.
Note that kinetic energy increases with the square of the velocity (E = 1/2·m·v2 relationship). This means that if the speed of a vehicle doubles, it has four times as much energy. The brakes must therefore dissipate four times as much energy to stop it and consequently the braking distance is four times as long.
Brakes of some description are fitted to most wheeled vehicles, including automobiles of all kinds, trucks, trains, motorcycles, and bicycles. Baggage carts and shopping carts may have them for use on a moving ramp.
Some aeroplanes are fitted with wheel brakes on the undercarriage. Some aircraft also feature air brakes designed to slow them down in flight. Notable examples include gliders and some WWII-era fighter aircraft. These allow the aircraft to maintain a safe speed in a steep descent. The Saab B 17 dive bomber used the deployed undercarriage as an air brake.
Deceleration and avoiding acceleration when going downhill can also be achieved by using a low gear; see engine braking.
Friction brakes on cars store the heat in the rotating part (drum brake or disc brake) during the brake application and release it to the air gradually.
Effects on noise pollution
The action of braking for motor vehicles produces recognizable sound level emissions, varying with the specific tire types and with the roadway surface type produces considerable effect upon sound levels or noise pollution emanating from moving vehicles.[1] There is a considerable range in acoustical intensities produced depending upon the specific tire tread design and the rapidity of deceleration required to slow the vehicle.
[edit] See also
Archaic past tense of break (see brake)
Air brake (aircraft)
Air brake (rail)
Air brake (road vehicle)
Bicycle brake systems
Brake-by-wire (or electromechanical braking)
Brake lining
Brake pad
Brake shoe
Bundy tube
Disc brake
Drum brake
Electromagnetic brake
Electronic Parking Brake
Engine braking
Hand brake
Hydraulic brake
Jake brake also known as J braking
Overrun brake
Parking brake
Railway brake
Regenerative braking
Threshold braking
Trail braking
Vehicle brake
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How brakes work
Of all the systems that make up your car, the brake system might just be the most important. In the olden days it was also one of the simplest. Over the years as improvements have been made, the system that has evolved isn't so simple anymore... (It's also about a zillion times more reliable and safer.)
Your brakes work as hard or harder than any other part of the car, however much energy it takes to get your car up a hill, it takes at least as much energy to stop it at the bottom. Think about that for a second. Here, I'll say it again, it takes at least as much energy to get your car safely down a hill and stop it at the bottom, as it took to get your car up the hill in the first place. Your brakes do this by converting the kinetic energy to heat energy. All of this heat is generated between the friction surfaces of your brake pads and your rotors. (I am going to disregard the rear brakes for now, since the front brakes do the lion's share of the work.)
Rather than try to give you a step-by-step procedure for repairing your brakes, I'm going to try to show you how to diagnose a few of the many simple brake problems. Unfortunately, before I can do that, I have to talk about how the brake system works. If you already know how it works, then you probably already know what your problem is, but you might find something useful here anyway or at least I hope so.
Brakes operate on a simple hydraulic principle. (See diagram below) If a force is exerted on the piston putting pressure on the fluid confined in the left hand container, the fluid is forced out through the narrow tube at the bottom and into the right hand container, exerting a force on the second piston, forcing it to move upward.
Now this is how the force from your foot gets to the four corners of the car. If we add a lever to magnify the force applied to the first (master) cylinder, and maybe even a power booster unit to increase that force even more, all we have to do next is figure a way to use that force to slow down the wheels. Since the wheels are attached to the car, slowing them down will slow the car.
If we change the shape of the right hand container, (see below) to make something for the piston to push against, we can make it pinch something. Let's bolt a disc(Brake rotor) to the wheel, so that it rotates whenever the wheel does. We'll mount it in such a way that the edge of it is between the caliper piston and the caliper that we have bolted to the axle of the car.so that when the piston moves out, the disc is pinched between it and the other side of the caliper. Actually we're not quite done. As we have the system now, the disc and the caliper would wear out rather quickly (not to mention making horrible grinding/scraping noises). We need to put something between them to protect the surfaces. Let's call this part "Brake Pads" But wait, as we have drawn it, the piston only pushes on one side of the disc. We have to allow the caliper to slide back and forth if we want it to actually pinch the disc efficiently. Let's make an anchor post and allow the caliper to slide along it. Let's make a nice, strong mount to hold the brake pads, and secure it to the axle. Now all we have to do is mount the caliper assembly to some sturdy part of the car and we're in business.
Brake pads have two main parts, the steel backing, and the actual friction material. The backing is only there to support the friction material, which does the actual work of stopping the car. The friction material does it's job by converting the energy of motion to heat energy. This is done by the magic of friction. The friction between the pad and the disc slows down the disc, and creates heat. This heat is transferred to the pad and the disc and then (at some fixed rate) dissipated to the surrounding air. How fast that heat is radiated is determined by a simple formula, depends on mainly two factors, the temperature of the air around the parts, and the flow of air past them. 99% of the time, this cooling is more than enough to keep the brakes cool enough to work just fine.
OK, now we have our simple brake system. Let's see what can go wrong...
Air in the system This is usually caused by air getting into the brake fluid area, usually from the master cylinder. As the brake pads wear, the caliper pistons ride farther out of the caliper, allowing more fluid to remain in the calipers. Over time this can add up to almost as much fluid as there is in the master cylinder reservoir. If neglected, this will allow the master cylinder to pump some air into the brake lines. Air is very compressable, whereas brake fluid is not, as long as there is a solid stream of brake fluid between the master cylinder piston and the caliper piston, the brake pedal will be nice and firm. If there is air in the system, the pedal will feel spongy and will go down almost all the way to the floor, maybe all the way, depending on how much air is in the system. The standard way of dealing with air in the brake system is to perform an operation called "bleeding the brakes".
Hard brake pedal: Can be caused by bad power booster, (or loss of vacuum to the booster) seized caliper pistons, seized caliper slides, pinched brake lines, and (rarely) problems with the pedal linkage under the dash. The probable best fix is rebuilt calipers,and new pads.
Brake fade: I have seen too much of this, having spent 5 years at the bottom of a 13 km hill with 15% grade and continuous switchbacks. Two phenomena contribute to brake fade, one is the fact that the coefficient of friction of most substances gets lower at high temperatures, and that most liquids will boil at some temperature, and that gases compress, while liquids do not. When you use the brakes to decelerate 3,000 or 4,000 or 7-8-15,000 lbs of vehicle, they get hot. Very hot. Under normal circumstances this would be no big deal, the heat that builts up in the pads, rotors, and calipers will slowly radiate back to the air flowing over them as the car continues down the road. But you aren't going down the road, you are back on the brakes, doing more decelerating for the next switchback. Instead of cooling off, your brakes are getting hotter. And hotter, and hotter. . .As the pads and rotors get hotter the friction material of the pads starts to separate. The binding agent starts to boil off from the surface of the pad, plating out on the rotor as a dark, paintlike film...coefficient of friction approaches zero, pedal gets hard, but no braking action. Your pupils dilate to 10 mm and your body goes into fight-or-flight mode, adrenalin courses through your system. But the car just goes faster.... You shift down, now you are standing on the brake pedal with both feet, around this time, the temperature of the brake fluid in the calipers usually reaches it's boiling point and the pedal just sinks to the floor. Your pupils reach 12 mm, your sphyncters contract to pinpoints, somehow you manage to stop the car. There is smoke coming from behind your front wheels, maybe fire. You put out the fire and have lunch. After things cool off you sit in the car and try the brake pedal, it feels almost normal. Congratulations, you've just experienced, (and survived) brake fade. (You've also just flash-fried your front brakes, figure on new everything to fix it properly.)
Brake squeal: This is a high pitched squealing noise, often heard when you are going slow and are not applying the brakes. If it goes away as you apply the brakes, it could be coming from the brake wear sensors. (Also called 'squealers' by mechanics.) They are small bits of spring steel that are attached to the brake pads in such a way that when the pads are about 75% worn out, the sensors start to rub on the rotors, making the noise. GM invented them, and they are one of the best ideas anyone has ever had in the automotive industry. The sound is so scary that you usually go to a mechanic before any major damage is done to your rotors, and before your braking power is compromised, saving you money and maybe your life.
Grinding noise: Although this is one of the nastiest sounds you will ever hear, it often is the easiest to repair. The first thing you must do is learn what is making the noise. Figure out which wheel it is, then, after safely raising and supporting the car, take off the wheel & tire. Hopefully you will see a simple disc brake system, with a rotor, a caliper, and brake pads. Identify the various components. Gently rotate the brake rotor back and forth until you can identify the source of the noise. Sometimes it is just a small stone, trapped between the brake rotor and the air deflector. The faces of the rotor should be smooth and clean. If you see large scaly rusted places on the friction surfaces of the rotor you should replace them. Most of the time new ones cost less than you would guess. If your pads are worn out(less than 3/16 of an inch of friction material left) and you catch it in time, all you have to do is install new brake pads. If the surface of the rotor is damaged, you will have to resurface or replace it.
Brake pedal pulsation: There are a lot of things that can cause this, from out-of-adjustment wheel bearings to rotors that are bent, brake drums that are out-of-round, rusty spots on the rotors that have a different surface smoothness. To determine whether the pulsation is coming from the front or the rear wheels, check to see if you can feel the pulsation in the steering wheel when the pedal is pulsating. If you can, the problem is coming from the front wheels.
Brake pull: Mostly this one comes from either a caliper piston seized or caliper slides seized. This one is dangerous! If your car tries to turn when you apply the brakes you could veer into oncoming traffic. What often happens with this one is this: the caliper piston on one side starts to seize, the other one now applies first, car veers away from bad part. Driver learns to compensate by steering opposite to the pull every time he brakes. A panic situation comes along, driver nails the brakes, steers away from the expected pull, but because the piston was only partially seized, it works just fine when the brakes are applied with vigor. There is no pull this time. It is easy to lose control of your car in situations like this, if your car pulls to one side or the other when you brake, fix it(or get it fixed) before you hurt somebody. Replace calipers and pads and service the caliper slides.
Brake grabbing: When you just barely touch the brake pedal and one or more wheels locks up and skids. This one most commonly comes from contaminated friction material on one or more brakes.
Pedal goes to the floor: Gotta be the scariest of them all. If you're lucky, a quick pump on the pedal will get you some braking action. On most newer cars, there will be some braking just before the pedal reaches the floor. Stop driving and check your fluid level. It might just need to be topped up to temporarily get you some braking action to get you home. Regardless, you must find out what caused it and fix it before you drive any further.
Components
Disc brakes have:
brake calipers
brake pads
rotors
caliper mounting hardware
Drum brakes have:
brake backing plates
brake drums
brake shoe self-adjusters
brake shoes
brake springs
wheel cylinders
Both types use:
Brake fluid
Steel brake lines and reinforced rubber brake hoses
Master cylinder
Power brake booster (usually)
proportioning valve
delay valve
metering valve
brake warning light
park brake cables, levers,
自动变速器具有操作容易、驾驶舒适、能减少驾驶者疲劳的优点，已成为现代轿车配置的一种发展方向。装有自动变速器的汽车能根据路面状况自动变速变矩，驾驶者可以全神贯注地注视路面交通而不会被换挡搞得手忙脚乱。
汽车自动变速器常见的有三种型式：分别是液力自动变速甜(AT)、机械无级自动变速器(CVT)、电控机械自动变速器(AMT)。目前轿车普遍使用的是AT，AT几乎成为自动变速器的代名词。
AT是由液力变扭器、行星齿轮和液压操纵系统组成，通过液力传递和齿轮组合的方式来达到变速变矩。其中液力变扭器是AT最重要的部件，它由泵轮、涡轮和导轮等构件组成，兼有传递扭矩和离合的作用。
自动变速器的挡位
一般来说，自动变速器的挡位分为P、R、N、D、2、1或L等。
P(Parking)：用作停车之用，它是利用机械装置去锁紧汽车的转动部分，使汽车不能移动。当汽车需要在一固定位置上停留一段较长时间，或在停*之后离开车辆前，应该拉好手制动及将拨杆推进“P”的位置上。要注意的是：车辆一定要在完全停止时才可使用P挡，要不然自动变速器机械部分会受到损坏。另外，自动变速轿车—[装置空挡启动开关，使得汽车只能在“P”或“N”挡才能启动发动机，以避免在其他挡位上误启动时使汽车突然前窜。
R(Reverse)：倒挡，车辆倒后之用。通常要按下拨杆上的保险按钮，才可将拨杆移至“r”挡。要注意的是：当车辆尚未完全停定时，绝对不可以强行转至“r”挡，否则变速器会受到严重损坏。
N(Neutral)：空挡。将拨杆置于“N”挡上，发动机与变速器之间的动力已经切断分离。如短暂停留可将拨杆置于此挡并拉出手制动杆，右脚可移离刹车踏板稍作休息。
D(Drive)：前进挡，用在一般道路行驶。由于各国车型有不同的设计，所以“D”挡一般包括从1挡至高挡或者2挡至高挡，并会因车速及负荷的变化而自动换挡。将拨杆放置在“D”挡上，驾车者控制车速快慢只要控制好油门踏板就可以了。
2(Second Gear)：1挡为前进挡，但变速器只能在1挡、2挡之间变换，不会跳到3挡和4挡。将拨杆放置在2挡位，汽车会由1挡起步，当速度增加时会自动转1挡。2挡可以用作上、下斜坡之用，此挡段的好处是当上斜或落斜时，车辆会稳定地保持在1挡或2挡位置，不会因上斜的负荷或车速的不平衡、令变速器不停地转挡。在落斜坡时，利用发动机低转速的阻力作制动，也不会令车子越行越快。
1(First Gear)：1挡也是前进挡，但变速器只能在1挡内工作。不能变换到其他挡位。它用在严重交通堵塞的情况和斜度较大的斜坡上最能发挥功用。上斜坡或下斜坡时，可充分利用汽车发动机的扭力。
自动变速器具有操作容易、驾驶舒适、能减少驾驶者疲劳的优点，已成为现代轿车配置的一种发展方向。装有自动变速器的汽车能根据路面状况自动变速变矩，驾驶者可以全神贯注地注视路面交通而不会被换挡搞得手忙脚乱。
汽车自动变速器常见的有三种型式：分别是液力自动变速甜(AT)、机械无级自动变速器(CVT)、电控机械自动变速器(AMT)。目前轿车普遍使用的是AT，AT几乎成为自动变速器的代名词。
AT是由液力变扭器、行星齿轮和液压操纵系统组成，通过液力传递和齿轮组合的方式来达到变速变矩。其中液力变扭器是AT最重要的部件，它由泵轮、涡轮和导轮等构件组成，兼有传递扭矩和离合的作用。
自动变速器的挡位
一般来说，自动变速器的挡位分为P、R、N、D、2、1或L等。
P(Parking)：用作停车之用，它是利用机械装置去锁紧汽车的转动部分，使汽车不能移动。当汽车需要在一固定位置上停留一段较长时间，或在停*之后离开车辆前，应该拉好手制动及将拨杆推进“P”的位置上。要注意的是：车辆一定要在完全停止时才可使用P挡，要不然自动变速器机械部分会受到损坏。另外，自动变速轿车—[装置空挡启动开关，使得汽车只能在“P”或“N”挡才能启动发动机，以避免在其他挡位上误启动时使汽车突然前窜。
R(Reverse)：倒挡，车辆倒后之用。通常要按下拨杆上的保险按钮，才可将拨杆移至“r”挡。要注意的是：当车辆尚未完全停定时，绝对不可以强行转至“r”挡，否则变速器会受到严重损坏。
N(Neutral)：空挡。将拨杆置于“N”挡上，发动机与变速器之间的动力已经切断分离。如短暂停留可将拨杆置于此挡并拉出手制动杆，右脚可移离刹车踏板稍作休息。
D(Drive)：前进挡，用在一般道路行驶。由于各国车型有不同的设计，所以“D”挡一般包括从1挡至高挡或者2挡至高挡，并会因车速及负荷的变化而自动换挡。将拨杆放置在“D”挡上，驾车者控制车速快慢只要控制好油门踏板就可以了。
2(Second Gear)：1挡为前进挡，但变速器只能在1挡、2挡之间变换，不会跳到3挡和4挡。将拨杆放置在2挡位，汽车会由1挡起步，当速度增加时会自动转1挡。2挡可以用作上、下斜坡之用，此挡段的好处是当上斜或落斜时，车辆会稳定地保持在1挡或2挡位置，不会因上斜的负荷或车速的不平衡、令变速器不停地转挡。在落斜坡时，利用发动机低转速的阻力作制动，也不会令车子越行越快。
1(First Gear)：1挡也是前进挡，但变速器只能在1挡内工作。不能变换到其他挡位。它用在严重交通堵塞的情况和斜度较大的斜坡上最能发挥功用。上斜坡或下斜坡时，可充分利用汽车发动机的扭力。
中英文都有
Automatic transmission is easy to use, driving comfort, reduce driver fatigue strengths, has become a modern car targeted a direction for development. Equipped with automatic transmission vehicles according to road conditions variable automatic transmission moment, drivers can watch with rapt attention to road traffic and not do a shift Shoumangjiaoluan.
Automatic Transmission There are three common types: hydraulic automatic transmission are sweet (AT), non-mechanical-automatic transmission (CVT), electronically controlled mechanical automatic transmission (AMT). At present the widespread use of cars is AT, AT almost become synonymous with automatic transmission.
AT variable-twisting by the hydraulic, gear and hydraulic control system components, transmission and hydraulic gear through the combination of methods to achieve variable speed moments. One variable hydraulic AT-twisting is the most important components, it round by the pump and turbine components, such as round and derivative components, both off and the transmission of torque.
Automatic Transmission Shift
Generally speaking, the automatic transmission into the Shift P, R, N, D, 2,1, or L, and so on.
P (Parking): used for parking purposes, it is using mechanical devices to lock the rotation of the vehicle, the vehicle can not be moved. When the vehicle needs in a fixed position on the stay for a longer period of time, or in parked vehicles * after leaving before the players should pull brake and Bogan will promote the "P" position. It should be noted that: vehicles must be completely stopped when the use of P block, or else automatic transmission mechanical parts will be damaged. In addition, the automatic transmission cars - [device activated switch in neutral gear, the car can only be made in the "P" or "N" to start the engine block, to avoid errors in other Shift on when the car suddenly started channeling ago.
R (Reverse): Reverse Gear, reversing vehicle use. Usually allocated according to the insurance rod button, Bogan will be moved to the "r" block. It should be noted that: When the vehicle has not been completely stopped time, and must not be forcibly transferred to the "r" block, or transmission would be seriously damaged.
N (Neutral): neutral gear. Bogan will be placed in "N" on the block, between the engine and transmission has been cut off from power. Such as a brief stopover at Bogan can be placed in this block and pull-hand brake, his right foot can be removed from the brake pedal a short break.
D (Drive): forward block, used in general road traffic. States have different models because of the design, "D" block generally includes high block from a block or two block high block, and because of changes in speed and load automatically shift. Bogan will be placed in the "D" block, the motorists to control the pace as long as the speed control can be good on the accelerator pedal.
2 (Second Gear): 1 block to block progress, but only in a block transmission, transformation between the two guards, will not jump to block 3 and 4 blocked. Bogan will be placed on Shift 2, a block from the car will start, when the rate increase will automatically turn a block. 2 block can be used as the upper and lower slopes of the use of the benefits of this block is on the ramp or when the down ramp, the vehicle will maintain stability in a block or two block position, not on the ramp of the imbalance in speed or load , To block transmission continuously. Drop-in slope, the use of low-speed engines for the resistance to brake, the car will not make the trip sooner.
1 (First Gear): 1 block also block progress, but only in a block transmission to work. Can not transform into other Shift. It used in the serious traffic congestion and the greater inclination to play on the slope of the function. On the slopes or the slopes, they can take full advantage of the automobile engine torque.
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绛旓細ABS=闃叉姳姝诲埗鍔ㄧ郴缁(Antilock Brake System)
绛旓細anti-locked braking system 闃叉姳姝鍒跺姩绯荤粺
绛旓細brake鏄竴涓嫳璇崟璇嶏紝鍚嶈瘝銆佸姩璇嶏紝浣滃悕璇嶆椂鎰忔濇槸鈥滃埞杞︼紱闃荤锛堢墿锛夛紱鏁炵鍥涜疆椹溅锛涚氦缁存崳纰庢満锛涚亴鏈ㄤ笡锛涙娲茶暔鈥濓紝浣滃姩璇嶆椂鎰忔濇槸鈥滃埞杞︼紱闃荤鈥濄傜煭璇惌閰嶏細Brake System鍒硅溅绯荤粺 ; 鍒跺姩绯荤粺 ; 鍒跺姩绯籶arking brake 椹昏溅鍒跺姩 ; 椹昏溅鍒跺姩鍣 ; 鎵嬪埞 ; 鍋滄満鍒跺姩 brake drum[鏈篯鍒跺姩榧 ;[杞﹁締]...
绛旓細EBS鐨勫叏绉版槸鈥ElectronicBrakeSystems鈥濓紝鎰忔濆氨鏄滅數瀛愬埗鍔ㄧ郴缁熲濓紝绠绉板氨鏄疎BS銆傝繖閲岄渶瑕佹敞鎰忕殑鍏抽敭璇嶆槸鈥滅數瀛愨濓紝EBS鐨勫叧閿氨鏄畠浜嗭紝鍦ˋBS绯荤粺鐨勫熀纭涓婏紝EBS澧炲姞涓濂楃數瀛愭帶鍒剁郴缁熷幓浠ｆ浛鍘熸潵鐨勬満姊扮郴缁熸帶鍒跺埞杞︼紝姒傛嫭鎴愪笁涓瓧灏辨槸鈥滅數鎺ф皵鈥濄侲BS鐨勬潵婧 EBS鏄熀浜嶢BS绯荤粺杩涘寲鑰屾潵锛屼篃鍖呭惈浜咥BS鍔熻兘锛屽畠...
绛旓細aeb鏄鑻辨枃鍗曡瘝Autonomous Emergency Braking鐨勯瀛楁瘝缂╁啓锛缈昏瘧鎴愪腑鏂囨槸鑷姩绱ф鍒跺姩绯荤粺銆傛惌杞借绯荤粺鐨杞﹁締锛屽湪闈炶嚜閫傚簲宸¤埅鐨勬儏鍐典笅锛屾甯歌椹讹紝涓鏃﹂亣鍒扮獊鍙戞儏鍐碉紝鎴栬呮槸涓庡墠鏂硅溅杈嗗拰琛屼汉璺濈杩囪繎锛屽氨浼氫富鍔ㄥ埞杞︼紝閬垮厤涓嶅繀瑕佺殑浜ら氫簨鏁呭彂鐢熴備絾鏄繖绉嶅姛鑳戒笉涓瀹氳兘瀹屽叏灏嗚溅杈嗗埞浣忥紝椹鹃┒鍛樿繕闇瑕佸杞﹁締杩涜鍒跺姩銆
绛旓細ABS/TCS 涓枃缈昏瘧鏄壍寮曟帶鍒剁郴缁燂紝鍏蜂綋鐨勫姛鑳藉氨鏄槻姝㈣溅杞湪璧峰姩銆佸姞閫熸垨涓婇櫋鍧℃椂鍙戠敓鎵撴粦锛岄厤澶囦簡姝绯荤粺鐨鐜颁唬椋炴濆湪寰堟偿娉炴垨鑰呭啺闆ぉ琛岄┒锛屽嚭鐜版墦婊戞儏鍐碉紝ABS/TCS绯荤粺灏卞惎鍔ㄦ帶鍒惰溅杈嗘墦婊戯紝鍙互淇濊瘉杞﹁締瀹夊叏骞崇ǔ鐨勬椂灏氾紝杩欐槸涓涓緢瀹炵敤鐨勭郴缁熴傚笇鏈涙垜鐨勫洖绛斿彲浠ュ府鍔╁埌浣犮
绛旓細浣犲ソ锛両ndication on brake fluid type to use written on the cylinder.Contains a thread for fixing mirrors.鎸囩ず鍦ㄥ埗鍔ㄦ恫绫诲瀷浣跨敤鍐欏湪姹界几銆傚寘鍚浐瀹氶暅瀛愮殑涓涓嚎绋嬨
绛旓細鈥淎BS鈥濇槸鑻辨枃鈥淎nti-lock Break System鈥濈殑缂╁啓,涓枃璇戜负鈥滈槻鎶辨鍒跺姩绯荤粺鈥濄傚畠鏄竴绉嶉槻姝鍒跺姩鍒硅溅鏃惰溅杞姳姝绘嫋婊戠殑瀹夊叏鎺у埗绯荤粺銆傛病鏈夊畨瑁匒BS绯荤粺鐨杞,鍦ㄩ亣鍒扮揣鎬ユ儏鍐垫椂,鏉ヤ笉鍙婂垎姝ョ紦鍒,鍙兘涓鑴氳俯姝汇傝繖鏃惰溅杞鏄撴姳姝,鍦伴潰鐨勯檮鐫鍔涘ぇ澶ч檷浣,渚у悜闄勭潃鍔涚敋鑷冲彲浠ラ檷涓洪浂,渚垮彲鑳藉彂鐢熶晶婊戙佽窇鍋忋佹柟鍚戜笉鍙楁帶鍒剁瓑...
绛旓細brake鏄嫳鏂囧崟璇嶏紝缈昏瘧鎴愪腑鏂囨剰鎬濇槸鍒硅溅鎴栧埗鍔ㄥ櫒銆傚綋浠〃鐩樹寒璧穊rake鐏椂锛岃〃绀鸿溅杈嗙殑鍒硅溅绯荤粺澶勪簬宸ヤ綔鐘舵侊紝鍗冲埗鍔ㄧ郴缁熸鍦ㄤ娇鐢ㄣ傚埗鍔ㄧ郴缁熸槸姹借溅涓婄殑涓绯诲垪涓撻棬瑁呯疆锛屽叾涓昏鍔熻兘鏄己鍒堕檷浣庢苯杞﹁椹堕熷害锛岀敋鑷充娇鍏跺仠杞︺傚埗鍔ㄧ郴缁熶富瑕佺敱渚涜兘瑁呯疆銆佹帶鍒惰缃佷紶鍔ㄨ缃拰鍒跺姩鍣ㄥ洓閮ㄥ垎缁勬垚锛岃繖浜涢儴鍒嗗叡鍚屽崗浣滐紝淇濊瘉浜...
